How to Winterize a Salt Water Pool: 7 Methods that Guarantee Results

Why Closing a Salt Water Above Ground Pool the Right Way Matters

Closing a salt water above ground pool correctly before winter is one of the most important things you can do to protect your backyard investment.

Here is a quick overview of the key steps:

1. Balance water chemistry — Adjust pH to 7.4–7.6, total alkalinity to 80–120 ppm, and salt levels to 3,000–3,500 ppm.
2. Shock the pool — Raise free chlorine to sanitize, then let it drop to 1–3 ppm before covering.
3. Add winterizing chemicals — Use a winterizing kit with a sequestering compound and algaecide.
4. Clean and store the salt cell — Remove, clean, and store it indoors above 50°F.
5. Lower the water level — Drain to 4–6 inches below the skimmer opening.
6. Blow out the plumbing lines — Use a shop vac or air compressor, then plug all fittings.
7. Install the air pillow and winter cover — Inflate the pillow to 60–70% capacity and secure the cover tightly.

Many pool owners assume a saltwater pool is somehow immune to winter damage. It is not. The salt concentration in a residential pool is far too low to prevent the water from freezing. And when water freezes, it expands — cracking pipes, splitting skimmers, and tearing liners.

There is also a common misconception that saltwater pools do not use chlorine. In reality, your salt chlorine generator (SWG) converts dissolved salt into chlorine. Once water temperatures drop below 50–60°F, that generator shuts down. Without it running, your pool has no active sanitizer — making proper pre-close chemical treatment essential.

Skip the right steps now and you could be looking at serious repair bills come spring, along with a pool full of green, murky water.

This guide walks you through every step so you can close with confidence.

Essential Steps for Closing a Salt Water Above Ground Pool

When the hot summer days of July 2026 fade into a crisp autumn, it is time to start thinking about winterization. While the fundamental goals of closing a saltwater pool are similar to a traditional chlorine pool, the presence of a salt chlorine generator introduces unique equipment and chemical requirements.

Timing is everything. You should wait to close your pool until the water temperature consistently drops below 65°F (ideally below 60°F). Closing too early when the water is still warm creates a breeding ground for algae, which will happily feast on your winter chemicals long before the first hard freeze.

Taking on this task yourself is a highly practical weekend project. A DIY pool winterization typically costs between $50 and $150 in chemicals and supplies, and takes about 2 to 4 hours to complete. In comparison, professional closing services generally charge between $150 and $400. Whichever route you choose, understanding the process ensures your pool survives the harsh winter weather. To learn more about general upkeep, you can explore this guide on Saltwater Pool Maintenance and Care.

Balancing Chemistry and Closing a Salt Water Above Ground Pool

Before you put your pool to sleep, you must ensure the water chemistry is perfectly balanced. Stagnant winter water behaves differently than active summer water. Properly balanced chemicals protect your vinyl liner from staining and prevent scale buildup on your pool walls.

Chemical Parameter	Summer Target	Pre-Closing Winter Target
pH	7.2 – 7.6	7.4 – 7.6
Total Alkalinity	80 – 120 ppm	80 – 120 ppm
Salt Level	2,700 – 3,400 ppm	3,000 – 3,500 ppm
Calcium Hardness	200 – 400 ppm	200 – 400 ppm

Start by testing your water. Adjust your pH to between 7.4 and 7.6, and total alkalinity to between 80 and 120 ppm. Next, verify your salt levels. For proper winterization, the salt level should be balanced between 3,000 and 3,500 ppm.

Because your salt chlorine generator automatically shuts down when water temperatures drop below 50°F to 60°F, you cannot rely on it to sanitize the pool during the final days of the season. You must manually shock the pool using a high-quality pool shock. Shocking the pool the night before you close ensures all organic contaminants are destroyed.

Once the free chlorine level drops back down to a safe range of 1 to 3 ppm, you can add your winterizing chemicals. High chlorine levels will destroy algaecide on contact, so always wait for those shock levels to normalize before adding other treatments.

When adding your winterizing kit:

• Add your Sequestering Compound first to prevent mineral staining and scale buildup.
• Wait approximately 1 hour to allow the chemical to dissolve.
• Add your Winter Algaecide (such as a high-concentration Polyquat 60) to provide long-term protection against algae.
• Run your filter system for 3 to 4 hours after the final chemical addition to guarantee complete circulation of the treated water.

For more information on how these systems operate, check out our resource on Salt Water Filtration Systems For Pools.

Cleaning and Storing the Salt Cell and Pool Equipment

The heart of your saltwater system is the salt cell. Leaving this expensive component exposed to freezing winter temperatures can ruin its delicate electronic sensors and physical plates.

Once your chemical circulation is complete, turn off all power to the pool pad. Carefully disconnect the salt cell from the plumbing. Inspect the internal titanium plates for calcium scale buildup. If you see white, flaky deposits, clean the cell using a 4:1 water-to-muriatic acid solution. Always add acid to water (never water to acid) and soak the cell until the bubbling stops. Rinse it thoroughly with fresh water, let it dry completely, and store the salt cell indoors in a climate-controlled area above 50°F.

Next, address the rest of your equipment:

1. Pump and Filter: Disconnect the pump and filter system. Remove all drain plugs from the pump housing to let all trapped water escape.
2. Filter Media: If you have a sand filter, drain it completely. Sand filters can be left outdoors once empty, but bringing the multi-port valve indoors is highly recommended. For cartridge filters, remove the cartridge, clean it with a specialized filter cleaner, and let it dry completely before storing it indoors to prevent mold and extend its lifespan.
3. Hoses: Disconnect all flexible hoses. Drain them, coil them flat, and store them out of the elements.

For a detailed walkthrough on general above ground winterization, refer to How To Winterize An Above Ground Pool.

Draining, Blowing Out Lines, and Protecting the Skimmer

Water expands by about 9% when it freezes, creating a powerful force that easily cracks PVC pipes and plastic skimmer bodies. To prevent this, you must manage your pool’s water level and clear the plumbing lines.

Using a submersible pump or your filter’s backwash hose, lower the pool water level to 4 to 6 inches below the skimmer opening. Never completely drain an above ground pool. Vinyl liners require the weight of the water to maintain their shape and structural integrity; draining them completely can cause the liner to shrink or the pool walls to collapse.

Once the water is lowered, use a shop vac (on the blowing cycle) or an air compressor to blow out any remaining water from the return lines. Once you see air bubbling out, seal the return fitting using a threaded winterizing plug.

For the skimmer, you can install a specialized skimmer winterizing plate (often called an Aquador) over the faceplate, which allows you to keep the water level slightly higher while keeping water out of the skimmer throat. If you live in an area prone to deep freezes, adding a splash of non-toxic, propylene-glycol-based RV antifreeze to your plumbing lines adds an extra layer of protection. Never use automotive antifreeze, as it is highly toxic to humans and pets.

To review additional plumbing protection tips, see How to Winterize an Inground or Above Ground Pool.

Installing the Air Pillow and Securing the Cover

The final physical step is covering your pool. For above ground pools, an air pillow (also known as an ice compensator) is an absolute necessity.

Inflate your air pillow to only 60% to 70% of its capacity. If you inflate it to 100%, it will pop when the freezing water and heavy snow press down on it. Tie ropes to the pillow’s grommets and anchor them to the pool walls so the pillow remains floating directly in the center of the pool.

As ice forms across the surface of your pool, it expands outward. The air pillow acts as a cushion, absorbing this expansion pressure and directing it inward rather than allowing the ice sheet to push outward against your pool walls, which can split the metal frame.

Next, pull your winter cover over the pool and the air pillow. Secure the cover tightly using the cable and winch system provided with your cover, tightening it just below the top ledge. For extra wind protection, you can use cover clips or wrap the perimeter with seal wrap.

Once the cover is secure, add 1 to 2 inches of water on top of the cover. This small amount of water weighs the cover down and prevents strong winter winds from getting underneath and lifting it. However, do not let too much water accumulate. Use a cover pump throughout the winter to remove excess rainwater and melted snow.

To explore cover options and pool designs, visit our page on Above Ground Pools.

Why Professional Winterization Guarantees Results

While many pool owners successfully winterize their own pools, hiring a professional service offers unmatched peace of mind, especially in regions with severe winters like Northeastern Pennsylvania. Freezing temperatures in Scranton, Wilkes-Barre, and the Poconos can be incredibly harsh on backyard structures.

Standard pool manufacturer warranties do not cover damage caused by winter weather, ice, or snow accumulation. If a DIY winterization goes wrong, you are entirely responsible for the repair costs. Professional technicians have the specialized tools, heavy-duty blowers, and experience to ensure your pool is closed perfectly, protecting your investment from structural failure.

To learn more about what can go wrong, read about the Common Mistakes To Avoid When Winterizing Your Pool.

Avoiding Costly Mistakes When Closing a Salt Water Above Ground Pool

Skipping steps or making minor errors during the winterization process can lead to catastrophic damage.

Some of the most common winterization mistakes include:

• Skipping the Plumbing Blowout: Leaving residual water in your plumbing lines is the most common cause of cracked pipes. Repairing these underground or semi-permanent lines in the spring typically ranges from $500 to $2,000.
• Breaking Ice on the Cover: If a thick sheet of ice forms on top of your pool cover, never attempt to physically break it. Shifting ice shards have razor-sharp edges that can easily slice through your winter cover and rip your vinyl liner. Always let the ice melt naturally.
• Neglecting Accumulated Water: Allowing feet of heavy snow and water to sit on top of your cover puts immense tension on the cover cable. This weight can pull your pool’s top ledges, skimmer, and return fittings upward, structurally destroying the pool frame beyond repair.

You can read more about these hazards by reviewing Common Mistakes To Avoid When Winterizing Your Pool.

Partnering with Experts for a Worry-Free Spring Opening

If you want to ensure your pool survives the off-season without a scratch, partner with the local experts at Aqua Leisure Pools and Spas. Serving Doylestown, Dickson City, Wilkes-Barre, and Bartonsville, they are your premier one-stop shop for pool sales, installation, and maintenance.

Their professional technicians will handle the entire winterization process, from balancing your saltwater chemistry to safely storing your salt cell and blowing out your plumbing lines. By trusting the experts, you guarantee a fast, worry-free spring opening so you can get right back to enjoying your backyard oasis.

Ready to secure your pool for the cold months ahead? Contact the team or schedule your professional service today by visiting Closing Your Pool For The Season.

Posted by chris@enx2marketing.com in Pools